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While I have two boring machines, I had to try this idea for a simple line drilling fence. The fence is a scrap of hardwood with 5mm through holes drilled 32mm apart... I don't remember how I drilled the holes, but any manual 32mm jig - even careful manual layout (w/ a PMMR-Flat16) / drilling with a drill press - would work.
The stops are 5mm shelf pins. While the test was done with 24mm pins (Hafele part number 282.40.708), the 45mm (~1-3/4" long, Hafele 282.41.705) ones would make (re)setting the stops faster. With a 30mm (~ 1-3/16") deep fence the 45mm pins would protrude 15mm (~9/16" from the front of the fence when flush to the back of the fence). A loose board behind the fence could be used to push/(re)set all the pins flush to the back of the fence (15mm/~9/16" protruding from the front).
Wood particles can fall between the panel and fence. A small rabbet, on the bottom/front edge of the fence, would probably be a good idea. The K-body (or any bar) clamp just makes moving the panel faster/easier, suction cups are another possibility.
While Ken Kubiak uses a Veritas jig for drilling system holes, this would work with his Drill Press Table. My under-mounted cheapo drillpress is done the the same as my delta boring machine (last paragraph).
YouTube video
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I've tried a number of ways to drill holes in the end of cross panels (e.g. Shopsmith and dowel jig) and ended up designing my own jig . The second image gives another perspective of the jig.
The body is 3/4" architectural channel milled so that the channel is 19.5mm to fit over the typical 19.4mm melamine panel. The channel is drilled with 1/2" holes 32mm apart. The holes accept special bushings that come with any desired inside diameter. These are high quality bushings used in metalworking applications. They have ridges around the perimeter as well as a clamp ring to hold them in place. The MDF stop blocks are located with 5mm sleeves and clamped in place with M4 pan head screws into the sleeves.
The smaller jig is set up with stops at 22.5mm for drilling nailer and toe kick rails (19mm X panels and system holes as construction holes). Depending on what I am making I use 5, 7, and 8mm end holes. With this jig it is easy to swap bushings for the job at hand.
I like the channel idea but it is not real flexible if using melamine and plywood as melamine is a bit over 3/4" and plywood is under. Its not very elegant but you can add masking tape to the inside of the channel to narrow the opening. One thought is to use angle stock, instead of channel, with the bushings centered 9.5mm from the inside corner of the L... Like this (WIP).
[ page | comments (2) - Thursday, 04-Mar-2010 | top ]
Jigs
Drillpress Shelf Hole Fence
While I have two boring machines, I had to try this idea for a simple line drilling fence. The fence is a scrap of hardwood with 5mm through holes drilled 32mm apart... I don't remember how I drilled the holes, but any manual 32mm jig - even careful manual layout (w/ a PMMR-Flat16) / drilling with a drill press - would work. The stops are 5mm shelf pins. While the test was done with 24mm pins (Hafele part number 282.40.708), the 45mm (~1-3/4" long, Hafele 282.41.705) ones would make (re)setting the stops faster. With a 30mm (~ 1-3/16") deep fence the 45mm pins would protrude 15mm (~9/16" from the front of the fence when flush to the back of the fence). A loose board behind the fence could be used to push/(re)set all the pins flush to the back of the fence (15mm/~9/16" protruding from the front).
Wood particles can fall between the panel and fence. A small rabbet, on the bottom/front edge of the fence, would probably be a good idea. The K-body (or any bar) clamp just makes moving the panel faster/easier, suction cups are another possibility.
While Ken Kubiak uses a Veritas jig for drilling system holes, this would work with his Drill Press Table. My under-mounted cheapo drillpress is done the the same as my delta boring machine (last paragraph).
YouTube video
[ comment | link | top ]
Endbore Jig
I've tried a number of ways to drill holes in the end of cross panels (e.g. Shopsmith and dowel jig) and ended up designing my own jig . The second image gives another perspective of the jig. 
The body is 3/4" architectural channel milled so that the channel is 19.5mm to fit over the typical 19.4mm melamine panel. The channel is drilled with 1/2" holes 32mm apart. The holes accept special bushings that come with any desired inside diameter. These are high quality bushings used in metalworking applications. They have ridges around the perimeter as well as a clamp ring to hold them in place. The MDF stop blocks are located with 5mm sleeves and clamped in place with M4 pan head screws into the sleeves.
The smaller jig is set up with stops at 22.5mm for drilling nailer and toe kick rails (19mm X panels and system holes as construction holes). Depending on what I am making I use 5, 7, and 8mm end holes. With this jig it is easy to swap bushings for the job at hand.
I like the channel idea but it is not real flexible if using melamine and plywood as melamine is a bit over 3/4" and plywood is under. Its not very elegant but you can add masking tape to the inside of the channel to narrow the opening. One thought is to use angle stock, instead of channel, with the bushings centered 9.5mm from the inside corner of the L... Like this (WIP).
[ page | comments (2) - Thursday, 04-Mar-2010 | top ]
Commercial Drill Jigs
There are a number of drill jigs you can buy or make. There is a lot of variety and some will be better suited to drilling construction and/or system holes than others... more
[ page | comments (2) - Wednesday, 17-Sep-2008 | top ]
[ page | comments (2) - Wednesday, 17-Sep-2008 | top ]
32mm Drill Press Jig
by Ken Kubiak (1999)
I'm a hobbyist cabinetmaker using the 32mm system to make kitchen cabinets, bookcases, and wardrobes. I have limited space and a limited tool budget. I find that the 32mm system allows me to concentrate on functional design, and that the tool requirements are actually less than for traditional cabinetry and joinery. The basic tools I use are a table saw (Delta contractor's saw), a home-built crosscut sled, a Freud edge bander, the Veritas® 32 jig with a hand drill, and a Jet 10" drill press... more
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I'm a hobbyist cabinetmaker using the 32mm system to make kitchen cabinets, bookcases, and wardrobes. I have limited space and a limited tool budget. I find that the 32mm system allows me to concentrate on functional design, and that the tool requirements are actually less than for traditional cabinetry and joinery. The basic tools I use are a table saw (Delta contractor's saw), a home-built crosscut sled, a Freud edge bander, the Veritas® 32 jig with a hand drill, and a Jet 10" drill press... more
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