Woodwork

Two piece, 2 - 1/4", top mounted crown that can have whatever reveal you want, e.g. 1/4" reveal to cabinet (the mock-up in the foreground) or doors. Its made with a Grizzly bit in a table router. The white fence was originally built for routing lock miters but I use it for everything. The clamped on MDF provides a tunnel that is the same size as my stock (5/8 x ~2 - 5/8", wide enough for a full miter on the bottom). Once the stock is routered, it needs two passes (top edge first, leave a hair of flat) on the tablesaw (38deg is standard, I needed 40, the saw scale or router bit are off... bit is 40).

The base piece also gets a 38deg. miter and I use a jig (image) to glue it to the crown. The key part of the jig is a round-over profile to match the cove in the crown. You could set it up anyway you want. For me the aluminum stop and loose round-over worked fine. If you tilt the spring clamps they can provide both down and forward pressure. With MDF I had almost perfect alignment on the bottom edge, a hard block sander evened things up quite nicely. There's also an image showing the full glue-up.

The next thing to try is lipped crown that will work with half-overlay upper cabinets. This will require at least 3/4" material which should be able to provide a slight reveal. I ran a 3/4" piece with the above, but cut the base to 21mm, i.e. flush to door face (19 door + 2 bumper, no reveal), without thinking it through. The jig would have to be setup with an 8mm strip underneath the base piece.

...I took a slightly diferent approach when extending the base of stock 3-1/4" crown. I made an L from some leftover Maple PB (I spaced out on the 3/4" loss, so the base of the L is 3/4" shorter than I wanted). The cove in the crown had a 3/4" radius so the only tricky part was ripping the 3/4" radiused MDF stop to the correct width. The crown was pretty bowed ao I used a lot of clamps. Using spring clamps, I veneered the bottom to make the seam go away.