The base piece also gets a 38deg. miter and I use a jig (image) to glue it to the crown. The key part of the jig is a round-over profile to match the cove in the crown. You could set it up anyway you want. For me the aluminum stop and loose round-over worked fine. If you tilt the spring clamps they can provide both down and forward pressure. With MDF I had almost perfect alignment on the bottom edge, a hard block sander evened things up quite nicely. There's also an image showing the full glue-up.
The next thing to try is lipped crown that will work with half-overlay upper cabinets. This will require at least 3/4" material which should be able to provide a slight reveal. I ran a 3/4" piece with the above, but cut the base to 21mm, i.e. flush to door face (19 door + 2 bumper, no reveal), without thinking it through. The jig would have to be setup with an 8mm strip underneath the base piece.
...I took a slightly diferent approach when extending the base of stock 3-1/4" crown. I made an L from some leftover Maple PB (I spaced out on the 3/4" loss, so the base of the L is 3/4" shorter than I wanted). The cove in the crown had a 3/4" radius so the only tricky part was ripping the 3/4" radiused MDF stop to the correct width. The crown was pretty bowed ao I used a lot of clamps. Using spring clamps, I veneered the bottom to make the seam go away.
- Re: Custom Crown
- Posted by Peter Kasper on Sunday, 25-Jun-2023
Thank you for your incredible work and extreme dedication to detail. I have learned alot from your posts and insight.[ reply | link ] to this. Go to [ topic | top ]
In the midwest, we build exclusively face frame cabinets with top cabinets and two piece crown running directly to the ceiling.
Do you use this crown on cabinets going to the ceiling?